Oily Skin

Oily skin isn't a flaw to be corrected; it's skin that produces more sebum than necessary. Sebum itself isn't the problem: it's a natural component of the skin barrier. The problem is when it's in excess, clogging pores and creating a favorable environment for blemishes and persistent shine.

The most common mistake? Treating it with overly aggressive products, believing that "drying" the skin will solve the problem. The result is often the opposite: skin stripped of its natural moisture and reacting by producing even more sebum.

In Korean and Japanese skincare, the approach is different: rebalance, not attack . Ingredients such as Niacinamide , BHA (salicylic acid) , Tea Tree , Centella Asiatica and purifying clays help regulate sebum production, keep pores clean and give the skin a more matte and even appearance, without stressing it.

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  • noticeable shine during the day, especially in the T-zone
  • more visible pores, often dilated
  • tendency to blackheads and blemishes
  • foundation or BB cream that slips off after a few hours
  • skin that appears thick or dull despite being shiny

An important detail: oily skin can also be dehydrated. Shininess on the surface doesn't mean the skin has enough water in its deeper layers, and an incorrect routine can create exactly this imbalance.

  • Niacinamide: This is probably the most versatile active ingredient for oily skin. It helps regulate sebum production, improves skin texture, and minimizes the appearance of pores. It is well tolerated even by sensitive skin.
  • Salicylic Acid (BHA): Fat-soluble, it penetrates pores where sebum accumulates. It helps keep them clearer and prevents the formation of blackheads. Use gradually to avoid skin irritation.
  • Tea Tree: Classic purifying ingredient, often found in cleansers and targeted treatments for skin with excess sebum and imperfections
  • Centella Asiatica: Useful when oily skin is also reactive or prone to redness. It soothes without clogging.
  • Purifying clays (kaolin, bentonite): They absorb excess sebum and help temporarily improve the skin's appearance. Ideal for masks used once or twice a week, not as a daily routine.

A simple and consistent routine is worth more than ten products used haphazardly.

  1. Purifying yet gentle cleanser: Removes sebum and impurities without leaving skin feeling tight. If the cleanser leaves skin feeling dry, it's too harsh.
  2. Balancing toner: Helps keep pores clearer and prepares the skin for subsequent treatments. It's best to avoid alcoholic toners, which irritate and stimulate more sebum.
  3. Serum with niacinamide or BHA: The heart of the routine for oily skin. Niacinamide daily, BHA every other day or a few times a week to start.
  4. Light cream or gel moisturizer: Yes, even oily skin needs hydration. A non-comedogenic gel or fluid texture maintains balance without adding sebum.
  5. Daily sun protection: Formulas for oily skin are increasingly lighter and more mattifying, there is no longer the excuse that sunscreen is greasy

Yes, always. This is one of the most common misconceptions about oily skin.

When the skin senses a lack of hydration, it can react by increasing sebum production as a compensatory mechanism. Using a light cream doesn't add oil, helps maintain the skin's moisture balance, and often reduces shine in the long run.

The key is to choose gel, fluid or oil-free textures, non-comedogenic, designed for combination or oily skin.

Purifying masks are a good addition to your daily routine, but they should be used as an occasional tool, not as the main solution.

Formulas with clay, activated charcoal, or balancing ingredients help absorb excess sebum and temporarily improve skin texture. Using them once or twice a week is sufficient; more than that risks dehydrating the skin and stimulating the skin's compensatory sebum production mechanism.

  • Does oily skin age more slowly? There's some truth to this: sebum helps keep skin more hydrated and soft over time, and oily skin tends to develop wrinkles later. However, this isn't a universal rule, and it's no reason not to take care of your skin.
  • Should I avoid oils if I have oily skin? Not necessarily. Some light oils like jojoba or squalane are non-comedogenic and can help balance the skin. Heavy oils or those with high occlusive properties should be avoided.
  • Does exfoliation help oily skin? Yes, if done in moderation. BHA in particular is the most suitable exfoliant because it works within the pores. Aggressive mechanical exfoliation, on the other hand, is counterproductive.
  • Why is my skin oily but also dehydrated? It's more common than you think. Shininess and hydration are two different things. An overly aggressive routine—strong cleansers, alcohol-based toners, too many active ingredients—can dehydrate the skin without reducing sebum. The solution is to simplify and reintroduce hydration.